Annapurna Circuit Trek

After early breakfast we hit the trail. After crossing a suspension bridge at Bhulbhule, the trail passes a cascading waterfall, and as we traverse the rice terraces, the views of Mount Manaslu, Himalchuli and Ngadi Chuli are magnificent. Following a gentle incline we come to the village of Ngadi with its picturesque shops. From here we climb, steep and hot, to Bahundanda. Bahundanda literally means “hill of the Brahmins” and it is the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marsyangdi Valley, situated high up on a ridge. From Bahundanda our trail abruptly dips to Syange (1080m).

Ahead, the Marsyangdi valley forms a steep V-shape, and we follow the winding mountain path down through Syange and along the river for some distance. The trail then climbs steeply and the path is cut into the sheer cliff-face some 200-300 m above the riverbed. Eventually we descend to the atmospheric village of Jagat, situated on a shelf, which juts into the precipitous Marsyangdi valley. Then steeply up through a forest to a wonderful teahouse just before Chamje and marked by a magnificent waterfall on the opposite bank. Chamje is an atmospheric village of traditional-style teahouses, often packed with saddled local horses. After descending to the river and crossing a suspension bridge, we continue on an

undulating path above the river, climb the switch-backing path to the top of the hill, and are treated to the sight of Tal below us on a wide plain by the river. Tal is the district border between Lamjung and Manang.

we have just traveled. Beyond Tal and the check-post, the valley narrows and the path become high and winding, and in several areas is actually hewn from the rock. Beyond the small village of Karte, there is a bit more exposed trail walking before the path drops again to the river. We cross a suspension bridge, and climb the short distance to the stone Mani marking the entrance to Dharapani. Travelling due west, Bagarchhap is an hour away from Dharapani offering exotic views of the Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal. Then we will reach the village of Danagyu after half an hour.

Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we turn left and head up the high trail to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests, we reach a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. An hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang, where the villagers might be harvesting their crops of buckwheat or stuffing local sausages. Heading back down to the village of Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up to Nar Phu, we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna II – a stunning sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan Mountains! Many of the villagers are the from Nar Phu valley; this is the gateway to their region. Less than an hour brings us to Chame, the local administrative center of Manang, and a large village packed with small shops and teahouses, an army post and a large school. We bed down here for the evening.

The trail now continues along the river backs through to Bharatang, which is surrounded by apple orchards. It’s a beautiful walk from Chame to Pisang, through woods with some small ascents, and wonderful views of the peaks soaring above us. It’s just a five hour day, so we’ll have the afternoon in Pisang to explore the village, with it’s Tibetan Mani stones and Gompa, perhaps taking a walk up to Upper Pisang for amazing views of Annapurna II and Annapurna III.

Trek the northern trail via upper Pisang and Ghyaru – an area renowned for its spectacular views. 6 hours walk past a series of unique and colorful Chortens to Manang, at 3500m, a village of 500 or so flat-roofed houses, the headquarters for the region, and an interesting village packed with trekkers, bakeries and lodges. Manang is dominated by high peaks – Annapurna III and Gangapurna tower over it, and a dramatic icefall sits just across the river. There is an old Gompa on the edge of town, many local teahouses, and some atmospheric, winding streets in the village leading out toward the Thorung La. Finally, guest houses, showers, cold beers! There is a 3 o’clock lecture on altitude by the Himalayan Rescue Association for anyone interested.

Today is our acclimatization day, with lots of options; a long day-hike to the Ice Lake, a visit to the ‘Hundred Rupee Lama’ at the cave gompa above Manang, a two-hour hike to Milarepa’s cave across the river from Braga, the HRA talk, or a tour of Manang’s many bakeries. A hike up 300 meters or so for acclimatization is recommended, but nothing too strenuous is required. The guesthouse is wonderful, a sunny and warm place to gaze at the peaks in the afternoon.

It’s not a long day today, but we gain some altitude, so should take it slowly. En route, we will undoubtedly be passed along the trail by galloping Manangi horses, saddled with wonderful (and expensive) Tibetan wool saddle blankets, and their jubilant Manangi riders, bells jingling as they gallop by. We climb past Tengi and Gunsang to Yak Kharka.

An easy two or three hour walk up to the Thorung La Base Camp Hotel at Thorung Phedi, and after an early lunch, another hour or so to hike up to the lodge at High Camp, where we will stay the night, getting to bed early for our early morning start the next day; pass day! If anyone is having problems with altitude, we have the option of staying at Thorung Phedi Base Camp, where we had lunch, a nice spot to spend the afternoon with its glass windows.

Up early for the three or four hour walk to the top of the Thorung La at 5.400 m, where we are treated with spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding peaks. The descent is almost as demanding as the ascent to the top of the pass, so a cup of chai and a snack at the local teahouse at Chabarbu, at the bottom of the descent, is a required stop. Then we will enter to lower Mustang, which we have actually reached just after the pass, and the serene temple complex of Muktinath. Muktinath is one of the most significant pilgrim places on earth for the Hindus and the Buddhist. Its unique combination of cold-water springs, natural gas fires and sea fossils that are millions of years old is considered sacred.

Our last day on the trail! It is with a touch of sadness that we will saddle up and get going, knowing that we won’t be doing this tomorrow (although we DO have lakeside cafes and massages to look forward to in Pokhara!).
We bid farewell to Muktinath and have a nice morning’s walk down the Kali Gandaki riverbed, looking for saligram along the way to Jomsom, the administrative center for the region. The Kali Gandaki valley gets incredibly windy in the early afternoon, so important to arrive before noon. We’ll have lunch in Jomsom and there is a bank if anyone needs to change money for a refreshing body massage along with hot shower

Sadly, it’s time to leave the magical mountains and bidding farewell to Jomsom, we head back to the greenery of the middle hills. This morning we need to be up and ready for the planes – they come early to make the best of the (usually) calmer weather in the early morning. We are by now familiar with the winds that race down the Kali Gandaki riverbed by midday and we sure don’t want to be in a plane then!
We enjoy this incredibly spectacular half hour flight to Pokhara and after checking into our hotel we have the rest of the day to just relax after our trek!!! Depending on your energy levels after your long days on the trail, you can do your relaxing in a lakeside café or bar, getting a massage or heading out for shopping or a spot of sightseeing. Lunch and dinner are free to explore the range of food available – dazzling after our time spent on the trail – and we can meet up for meals or take some out to reflect on the amazing experience we’ve just had. If you’d like to go exploring the food options on your own, we will give some good recommendations! (Note: today is a great day to put some laundry in and have time to pick it up before we head to Kathmandu!)